Be sure to dispose of the used oil properly.
#Winterizing inboard outboard engine manual
After reinstalling the oil drain plug, refill the crankcase with the appropriate quantity of fresh 10W-30 or 25W-40 marine grade four-stroke oil (check your engine manual for more specifics), put all the parts back in place that were removed to access the filter and drain plug and you are done. After setting up the appropriate oil pan to catch the drippings and some absorbent paper towels to clean up any mess, drain the oil from the engine and once that is done, then remove and replace the oil filter.
Now that your engine is warmed-up from the fogging process, if it’s a four-stroke outboard (or inboard), it’s time to change your engine oil and filter. Be sure to follow the do’s and don’ts for engine flushing when running your outboard out of the water. Some DIY boater’s like to go the extra yard and remove the spark plugs to add an extra squirt of the engine fogging or Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder before replacing the plugs. Running the engine at idle and slow-trolling speeds (700-1500 rpm) will eventually generate a similar blue cloud of foggy smoke as the oil is distributed in the upper cylinders and burns off during the combustion process.
#Winterizing inboard outboard engine portable
I fill up a plastic outboard fuel tank with 2-gallons of 93-octane petrol, add double doses of Oil and fuel stabilizer to the mix and then remove the engine’s fuel line from the primary fuel filter and feed it directly from the portable tank. Yet another way to accomplish the same engine fogging task is to winterize your fuel system and your engine simultaneously using a separate dedicated 6-gallon fuel tank, which is the method that I prefer. This upper cylinder lubricant will leave a slick surface on the aforementioned internal cylinder components that will prevent corrosion, sticking or binding up over the cold winter months. One method of “fogging” your engine is to spray a can of fogging oil into your engine’s fuel intake system while it is operating at idle speed, so that it works its way down into the cylinders and causes a blue-gray cloud of smoke to exit via the exhaust. from the ravages of corrosion, sticking and startup friction. Two-stroke, four-stroke, inboard, outboard, whatever…the fogging process will protect the cylinders’ internals like pistons, piston rings, the combustion chamber walls, valves, etc. Be sure to let all of the water drain out of the engine in the down/lowered position before tilting it up, to insure that you won’t have any freezing problems in the cooling system path.Īll internal combustion engines can benefit from fogging out the cylinders prior to the winter layover. Five minutes of either flushing the engine (off) with freshwater via the port, or running it at idle speed with the muffs attached should do the job.
When running your outboard when it’s high and dry, be sure to look for the telltale stream of water squirting out from under the engine pan to confirm that it’s getting enough flow. While this is a convenient fitting for flushing the motor either at dockside or when your boat is on a trailer, many manufacturers recommend that this flushing port not be used when the engine is running.įollowing this advice, a pair of single-feed or twin-feed ear muffs will do the job and will inject cooling water at the bottom of the motor in the skeg intakes, allowing it to flow over the impeller and up into the powerhead. Most mid-sized and high horsepower outboards manufactured after 1999 feature a convenient freshwater flushing port that is either located on the side of the engine’s mid-section, or just under the motor pan. A thorough winterization on your ride typically insures a smooth start-up come springtime Learn essential tips and tricks for winterizing your boat’s major systems.
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